Europa League Postcard from Stockholm (AIK -v- Shamrock Rovers)

I’m usually someone who loves to combine football with some sightseeing but this week’s trip to Stockholm for Shamrock Rovers’ Europa League qualifier against AIK had more of the feel of a footballers visit about it; flight out from Dublin, stadium walkabout ahead of the game, match, and early flight home.

Having recently spent a couple of enjoyable weeks watching plenty of international football from the press box, this was a trip where the laptop was left at home so I could enjoy a game from the stands.

I flew out to Stockholm on the day of the match via Edinburgh with the first leg of my journey spent with a good few golf fans heading to Carnoustie. While they were focused on Major honours at The Open, the small number of Hoops supporters on the flight were talking about the major prize on offer for Rovers if they could overcome the 1-0 first leg deficit. 

I hear Stockholm is a lovely city and I can’t say I got a feel for the place on what was my first visit but I tried to make the most of my limited time there. If any newspaper editor is looking for a ‘what to do in Stockholm in 18 hours or less’ I’m your man.

Don’t mind the Gamla Stan cafés, Vasa Warship or Djurgarden Ferry that the guide books were mentioning. I recommend Eric’s Gondolen for epic views from Sodermalm looking down on the city where Lake Malaren meets the sea – best done after midnight after seeing your team draw away from home but I’m getting ahead of myself.

My other recommendation is a duo of stadium visits – starting at the venue for the 1912 Olympics and ending at the ultra-modern Friends Arena surrounded by both friends and Ultras.

The Stockholm Olympic Stadium is a wonderfully maintained piece of sporting history close to the city centre. It is known locally as the Klocktornet (clock tower) in honour of the clock that adorns one of the two brickwork towers in the stadium.

The outer facade is a made up of gorgeous brick arches – which are no longer hidden behind ivy – below the timber roof. There are Greek style statues of athletes  throwing the javelin and a relay baton being passed outside the stadium. 

Going through the main entrance, you can read the list of world records claimed at a venue that was actually used across two Olympiads – with horses unable to travel to the 1956 Olympics due to quarantine issues, the equestrian events took place in Stockholm that year.

The stadium was used by Djurgardens’ Allsvensken side till 2013 prior to their move to the Tele2 Arena but still host matches for the club’s womens team. The refurbished 15,000 stadium has a modern synthetic track and still hosts world class athletics – a diamond league event was held there last month.

In 1912 with it being prior to independence Ireland weren’t competing as a team at that year’s Olympics but there were some Irish winners. A Tipperary man called Matt McGrath competing for America won the Hammer with an Olympic record while Clare native Pat McDonald also won a gold medal for the USA in the shot putt event. 

AIK play their football in the Friends Arena in Solna north of Stockholm’s city centre. The venue is only a kilometer away from the now demolished Rasunda Stadium – home to the 1958 World Cup final and the venue where Shamrock Rovers played Djurgardens in the 2002 UEFA Cup.

Towering above the ground is the Quality Hotel Friends where the Rovers team stayed. The players could open up their curtains from their room and look down into the stadium from their bedrooms with the hotel connected by an internal bridge with the stadium.

For this Europa League First Qualifying Round second leg, it was a sparse enough attendance. All told just over 8,000 were there on Thursday, well short of AIK’s typical 18,000 attendance and the 50,000 plus capacity in what is Sweden’s national stadium.



The upper tier was closed – curtained off to make it look less empty and to improve acoustics – while the stadium roof was left open.

Stephen Bradley continued with 16-year-old Gavin Bazunu in goal who certainly wasn’t fazed playing in front of the AIK Ultras located behind the goal he defended in the first half. At the opposite end of the ground, there was a crowd of about 200 or so Rovers fans who on 19 minutes were celebrating their team take the lead.

Sean Kavanagh’s corner came to Dan Carr whose tidy volleyed finish gave Rovers the lead. Last season Carr was playing in the fourth tier of Swedish football but now his goal for the Hoops followed by his trademark head-over-heels celebration had given Rovers a precious away goal in this Europa League qualifier.

Ronan Finn was making his 19thappearance for Rovers in Europe – a record equaling number for the club moving him alongside Johnny Fullam. With 35 European appearances in total, the current Rovers captain is sixth in the all-time League of Ireland appearance list.

The Hoops kept the game tight but certainly had chances to win the tie in normal time. Joel Coustrain’s first half one-on-one and substitute Aaron Greene’s late header stand out. 

AIK have not lost in the league this season so it was impressive for the Hoops to lead at the end of 90 minutes with the game going into extra-time to see who could win the tie.

Argentinian Nicolas Stefanelli grabbed AIK an equaliser on the night to give them a 2-1 lead over the two legs, running by the away section with a quick hand to his ear to take in Rovers supporters’ thoughts on the goal!

A late Ethan Boyle long throw caused panic in the AIK box but Rovers couldn’t find a winner on the night. 

After a lengthy wait in the ground, Rovers supporters were given a long police escort. First to the train station, then on the train, and even off it towards the city centre pubs that Rovers fan had been frequenting – the equivalent of the Gardai giving away fans an escort all the way from Tallaght back to Temple Bar!

The morning after the night before it is an early start for club officials, players and supporters who are on the 07:50 SAS flight back to Dublin.

Chatting to some of the players and management team, it is clear how proud they are of their display the previous evening but also the disappointment of coming so close to progressing only to miss out.

Still no League of Ireland club have lost a home first leg and won away to progress.

Fitness had helped the Hoops compete with AIK right through the 120 minutes which was another positive – the players strength and conditioning will be tested again this weekend with the quick turnaround for a trip south to take on Waterford on Sunday afternoon. 

With Rovers sitting fourth in the table, they aren’t guaranteed European football next season, so will need to keep the pressure on the Blues if they are to get back into Europa League action next season.

    About Macdara Ferris

    Macdara Ferris is a contributor since 2007 to Hoops Scene (Shamrock Rovers' match day programme) and is the co-author of two books on Shamrock Rovers - 'Tallaght Time: Shamrock Rovers 2009 to 2012' (with Karl … View Full Profile